



It was discovered in a "Home Inspection" that this homes chimney had been improperly sided resulting in water damage to the structure. We would like to provide a brief overview of the steps taken to properly repair this problem.
NOTE - this overview is not intended to provide a complete description or contain all the details needed, but rather give an idea of how the project is undertaken.
The FIRST STEP in the actual project was the removal of spark arrester, chimney cap and rotten siding. Care should be taken when working in high places and around old nails and rotten wood.
After the old material was removed an assessment of the structure revealed dry rotted framing members. STEP TWO was the removal and replacement of all rotten wood. You can "click" on the first picture to get a bigger view. You will notice that two of the vertical studs have been replaced. Also several of the "bottom plates" or 2X4's that are at the base have been replaced. The new flashing covers a lot of this wood.
Once the structure is in place the next phase, STEP THREE is dealing with water shed. This means providing the proper flashing (the shiny galvanized metal you see at the bottom of the chimney) and then wrapped with an appropriate moisture barrier. The flashing should be installed with only enough nails to properly secure it, and typically, driving the nail into and through the side rather than the top of the flashing. The goal is to keep water out! The moisture barrier, or "house wrap" in this case, should go on AFTER and OVER, the flashing. Think of it as if rain were pouring down and you wanted to make sure it ran from the top all the way down to the roof without ever being given a chance to get into the structure of the building.
STEP FOUR is installing the siding. There are many different types and qualities of siding, and each has it's unique features and installation guidelines. The siding used for this job was T & G (tongue and groove)1X6 Cedar. Cut the boards to come to the end of the framing and assemble from the bottom up, making sure the tongue is facing up. Care should be taken so that the horizontal grooves between each piece line up on all four sides. This means that with the pitch of the roof, special considerations and cuts need to be made on the first few boards at the bottom.
Once all the siding is secure using galvanized nails, STEP FIVE is applying the trim. 1X4 pre-primed white fur was used here. Don't nail to close to the ends, to prevent splitting. Make sure all cuts are accurate. The bottom of the trim should NOT touch the flashing. This promotes water damage as it is wicked up the grain of the trim - usually 1/4-3/8" gap is sufficient.
STEP SIX is the re-installation of the chimney cap and spark arrester. At this point all screws in the cap should be coated with a roof sealant as well as any nails used to secure the flashing. Any gaps, cracks or openings in the siding or trim should be caulked using a quality sealant.
Once the caulking is done your project is ready for priming and paint. Be careful not to spill on the roof :)